Neru Blazer - Jasje met opstaande kraag
Deze blazer is gemaakt voor een jongedame die deze graag zowel casual als formeel wil kunnen dragen. Zo kan ze het jasje dragen met een jeans maar ook met een pantalon.
Tag: Detail
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Ask a Tailor: Lengte van de broek?
Kreeg net een nuttige vraag waar vele heren toch over dubben, met dank aan de heer J. Kelder.
‘Behoort een broek op de schoen te vallen of er boven te zweven?’
Dit kan in principe beide. Hetgeen dat je jezelf af kan vragen is ten eerste wat wil ik uitstralen met mijn broek.
Een kortere broek geeft een vlotter voorkomen, een Italiaanse associatie. Een broek die op de schoen valt en/of tot de hak doorloopt is klassieker en formeler, een Britse associatie.
Persoonlijk zou ik broeken die smart casual worden gedragen, Chino’s, kort laten maken en een broek behorend bij een kostuum op de Britse wijze.
Wanneer je wat verder bent met je garderobe kan je hiermee gaan spelen en een uniek “Personal Brand’neerzetten met je kledingstijl.
Tip: Als je wilt weten wat de gevolgen zijn als je broek korter wordt. Kom dan langs bij ons atelier en laat je broek gewoon afspelden, dan zie en voel je de gevolgen en kan je bewust je keuze maken. Je kan je bestaande broeken ook door ons laten vermaken/aanpassen.
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Good quality lasts generations.
I am always surprised when my fellow humans run around chasing the newest fashion or must haves. Often products made to last a minimal period with poor quality concerning the make.
Quality prevailes always over fashion and certain youngsters recognize this also today and save a lot of money.
In the picture you see one of our junior clients fitting and old Raglan coat of his father. Beautifully made, phenomenal material aka an addition to a young men’s classic look and style.
We will pin this down to his body size so he can see and feel what the effect of the alterations will be before deciding on this. In this way you have a nice coat including the family heritage.[/dcs_p]By the way it is environmental friendly to.
A genuine bespoke tailor always offers an alteration service to keep track of changes in body size and style for his and her clients.
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Style suggestion: Belt, Braces, Both or None?
Today I received a mail from a client living in Spain, this regarding when to wear a belt or braces?
When you have your trousers tailored they should fit correctly and comfortably without braces or a belt.
You are allowed to wear braces and/or a belt but then it should be an accessory purely. So do not use it like the cowboys to hold up your trousers from touching the ground.
Another rule is that when you have belt loops you never wear braces. So decide upfront if you want your trousers tailored to wear with or without braces or a belt.
When you like to wear braces then make sure that your trouser has special buttons on the inside – measured to the closing of your braces.
When you are really strict to the etiquette then you will always wear a belt when you have belt loops, what would be the reason to have them if you don’t use them?
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Tailors trick: slanted trouser bottom
A genuine bespoke tailor has an arsenal of little tricks and ways to achieve the desired look for his/her clients.
Often we see men with trouser bottoms that are too long. When this occurs you immediately loose that silhouette acquainted with a well dressed look.
The solution is very simple when you have cuff-less trouser bottoms; just have your bottoms cut in a slanted matter. So the front side is about 1,5 cm. shorter than the back side. This makes sure that the front side just touches your shoe instead of laying down on it as additional fabric without reason.
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Is our eye trained?
Have a look at this shirt please.
This is just a king blue shirt with a Twill weave or not? No there are 2 tricks in it that help you to make your shirts a tool that radiates trust.
In this case the shirts are tailored for a person in the financial world, some trust has been lost there as you probably know. He wanted a classic shirt that shows he is to be trusted. When he is in the personal circle of his clients he wants them to see his eye for detail.
To achieve such an effect we stitched to whole shirt with a very mild egg yellow that creates a very subtle line all over the shirt. We picked purple buttons stitched with purple to add a personal detail and to enhance the color of the blue cotton.
And voila your shirt is a classic with that little personal extra. Fun to create and wear – that is Bespoke Tailoring.
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Flap pocket
Often forgotten is that a Bespoke Tailor does not only tailor suits.
You can see here a pair of tailored jeans with a button flap pocket. This because the client is not a fashionisto but simply a person with his own style who likes a product that contains the elements he finds relevant.
You can find many more ideas and designs at our personalisation page: Personalisation
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Tailoring by request
Sometimes speed is crucial and it is a benefit that our team is build out of tailors with a focus to preserve the artisanal qualities.
In this case we had a client running in with a shirt without buttons and the reception would start within 15 minutes. That means sewing buttons on high speed so he would arrive on time like nothing happened.
Bespoke Tailoring is about adding value to your dress style so you can enjoy this and life more.
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Tab closure
One of the elements of Bespoke Tailoring is creating garments with personal details.
A classic detail we see coming back the last months is the ‘Side Tab’ on the trouser. A part from the fact that it is a nice detail that helps creating a classic look and feel, it is also very useful especially for the bigger man.
It allows you to adjust your trousers so you always feel comfortable, for example after a heavy dinner it can be quite a relief to have some additional space.
You can see many more possibilities in our catalogues: Trouser Styles
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Your ideas
This Friday a client rushed in to provide some buttons he wants to use for the Tuxedo and shirt we are just crafting for him.
Since the Tuxedo normally is made with a fabric button and he does not like that he chose a more distinctive sort – fits better with his Italian blood.
The shirt is going to be extra fancy with the little gem like buttons.
These are my favourite projects – co-creating personal styles and looks.
More details/ideas: http://deoost.nl/personalisation/
