Archive for February 2012

There are several ways to achieve this. The cause and effect do depend on your body type – a matter we have to except.

The Jacket – Het Jasje:

If you look to a jacket you actually see a triangle – the line of the lapel going up from the highest closing button to the shoulder. The lower the button the longer the lapel and the slimmer you become.

Wanneer u naar uw jasje kijkt ziet u een driehoek – de lijn van het rever die omhoog loopt naar de schouder vanaf uw hoogste sluitknoop. Hoe lager uw knoop is geplaatst des te langer is het rever en des te slanker u oogt.

Another point is the height of the notch and the shape of it. A peak lapel adds more length then one that is cut away to the side since the line of the lapel is prolongued. When you have your jackets made then make sure the height of the notch is equal to your shoulder so you have maximum effect.

Een ander punt is de hoogte van het rever en de vorm. Een opgesneden rever geeft meer lengte dan een weggesneden soort. Dit omdat de lijn van het rever verder doorloopt. Wanneer u uw jasjes / colberts laat maken zorg dan dat de hoogte van het rever gelijk is aan de schouderlijn om maximaal effect te scheppen.

If you would like to see more possibilities then visit our catalogue:

http://deoost.nl/personalisation/jacket-suit-styles/

Body shapes of pear, banana, apple, triangle, H, T go on and on and on. I don’t know about you but my body does not fit these categories and nor does my long body fit into the average silhouette of  ”body shape clothing”.  The unique aspect for bespoke clothing is that your body is not classified as a certain body shape. Whether bespoke or off-the-rack, your body proportions can be simplified into 3 sections and each section is 1/3 of your body (excluding neck and head) a.k.a. portions

•  Shoulders to waist
• Waist to knees
• Knees to ankles

Today’s Topic is shoulders to waist.

Broad shoulders: you already display a sense of confidence so you don’t have to dramatize your shoulders. Avoid large shoulder pads, puffed shoulders, and wide lapels. This also depends on the size of your bust. Ideally, bigger busts should find jackets with no lapel to avoid a top heavy look and feel. If a lapel is desired, a longer and narrow length is better and makes your upper body look longer. Certain box shaped jackets like Coco Chanel’s  may not be your best solution either because it is over bearing. To avoid top heavy shirts, divert the focus by wearing a V shape or wide neckline for your shirts. This creates balance.  If you have broad shoulders and small busts, most of the same rules apply except for the fact that your shirts and dresses that have collars or thicker straps. Wide shaped garments take away your bust.

Narrow shoulders: Everything can take on the opposite. For example, extended shoulders (like my lasted post: Style of Emmanuelle Alt), puff shoulders, padded shoulders, larger lapels can do wonders for you. It gives you a stronger presense. Smaller armholes are better for you because too big of an armhole can make you seem like you’re drowning in your jacket, shirts, and dresses. As for small or big busts for shirts, the same rules apply as stated in the last paragraph.

Fitted Waists: You should always be fitted properly to your waist size.  When the waist is fitted to you, it gives you that hour glass shape even if you don’t have that naturally. Creating an illusion to fix flaws or embrace them. For those who have a shorter torso and you want to find a jacket that fits you, make sure the jacket have no more than 2 buttons. Anything more than two button shortens you even more. Again, longer and leaner lapels give length to your torso. Longer torso can take on more buttons but again the key is to have a fitted waist in your clothing. We will address the length of the jacket in our next blog post because the length of the jacket really depends the 2^nd portion of your body: waist to knees.

Save money, time, discomfort and your image for first impressions  by understanding your body proportions. All the rules I listed can be bent because every person’s body is different.  Don’t stereotype your physique.

Have any questions that you want me to address in “ask the tailor” or want to set up a consultation? Contact me at Macy’s email: mkooima@deoost.nl. We are here for you.

Inspiration for personal style develops from our style icon(s). To break the ice, Emmanuelle Alt, editor-in-chief of Vogue- Paris is one of my style icon; as well for many others. She has a challenge to be up to date with the latest fashion trends and display timeless elegance.

The image of Emmanuelle Alt is an example of her jackets. It’s suitable for the office wear but piercing for those late-night dates. This jacket is chosen to demonstrate how you can twist a traditional jacket into your own untraditional statement. How can you get the craftsmanship of this look? Let me break it down for you.

The statement of this jacket begins in the shoulders. It’s a bold move because the shoulder paddings extend beyond the end of her shoulders. The key to making it look good is to have smaller armholes underneath the arms to compliment the scope of the shoulders. Sleeves should also be tapered more to achieve a feminine look and feel. The length of her sleeves are longer which gives her options to wear long and short sleeve shirts underneath and maintain balance in women’s jacket. The absence of a basic lapel is the most unique part and crucial point to take away because of its shoulder’s announcement. However, the collar still remains in order to shape the neck, shoulders, and top of her chest. This is a perfect jacket for a special event because there are no buttons at the waist and the black or dark charcoal fabric takes her away from the office look. Due to a more structured appearance, mohair is a perfect type of fabric to achieve the bravura of her jacket.

From the Mohair bunch by Bateman & Ogden.
Browse Clothbook

She is an impeccable example for always dressing in her own style, simple articles of clothing, and professionally chic. Take away the fact that she looks like a model, her tailored jackets always embrace her tom-boyish beauty.

Who is your style icon and how can we help craft it into your own bespoke clothing? Contact me at Macy’s email: mkooima@deoost.nl

We think that personal attention is the fundament to start building any relationship.

One of the small services we offer when we have worked with a client before is that we make pre selections of materials. In this case for business suits, summer trousers and an all season jacket. You can see the swatch books laying ready on the table. This not only saves time in a practical sense but we think it displays that we know what our customers want.

Due to these close relationships we get in touch with a multitude of clients and can use this experience and input to become more creative in creating/tailoring a look and style that displays your persona best.

Now ask yourself? When you buy a suit form a certain brand – what part of you/yourself/yours has been considered? None indeed – why do you spend your money on garments that create no actual value for your dress style? We want to offer the best price value to our customers that is why we tailor only unique 1 of a kind pieces.

In dit geval een klassieke pantalon voor divers gebruik gemaakt van de Gaberdine collectie van Holland & Sherry. Read more

Naar aanleiding van een bezoek in ons atelier kreeg ik de volgende vraag: ‘ik wil graag een stevig binnenwerk ipv. het soepelere zoals u dat normaliter gebruikt, kan dat?

Dat kan zeer zeker en dit is ook waar wij onze uitdaging in vinden. Het binnenwerk is het canvas van linnen met paardenhaar dat stevigheid / vorm geeft aan het jasje.

We zien dat dit over de jaren heen steeds soepeler is geworden of zelfs niet meer word gebruikt. Juist deze parameter is een teken van een kwalitatieve make en door het wijzigen van het canvas kan je de kleding zich anders laten gedragen en geeft het een nog mooier silhouet.

Ik zou adviseren hier alleen mee aan de slag te gaan als u al veel ervaring heeft met kleermakers of het dragen van verschillende soorten pakken qua materiaal, gewicht en manier van maken. Dit vanwege de complexiteit en samenhangende kosten vanwege het additionele handwerk.

Op de foto ziet een u een plaatje met diverse soorten canvas.

Kreeg net een nuttige vraag waar vele heren toch over dubben, met dank aan de heer J. Kelder.

‘Behoort een broek op de schoen te vallen of er boven te zweven?’

Dit kan in principe beide. Hetgeen dat je jezelf af kan vragen is ten eerste wat wil ik uitstralen met mijn broek.
Een kortere broek geeft een vlotter voorkomen, een Italiaanse associatie. Een broek die op de schoen valt en/of tot de hak doorloopt is klassieker en formeler, een Britse associatie.

Persoonlijk zou ik broeken die smart casual worden gedragen, Chino’s, kort laten maken en een broek behorend bij een kostuum op de Britse wijze.

Wanneer je wat verder bent met je garderobe kan je hiermee gaan spelen en een uniek “Personal Brand’neerzetten met je kledingstijl.

Tip: Als je wilt weten wat de gevolgen zijn als je broek korter wordt. Kom dan langs bij ons atelier en laat je broek gewoon afspelden, dan zie en voel je de gevolgen en kan je bewust je keuze maken. Je kan je bestaande broeken ook door ons laten vermaken/aanpassen.

Aanbieding: Wij maken graag een stijlvol 2-delig kostuum voor u met 2 overhemden/dress shirts voor € 749 ipv. € 1290. Uw voordeel € 541.

The (dress) shirt is the most basic garment you can wear. Unfortunately in general people wear shirts that do not fit them in size and appearance.

To solve this we have created a special offer where you can introduce yourself to the world of Bespoke Shirt Making.

The offer: We would like to tailor you 3 bespoke shirts for only € 249,-.

Bespoke Tailoring is not about suits it is about personal attention and how you translate this in to a garment that looks good and feels great.

Our colleague in LA, Macy, came in contact with a female entrepreneur who had some ideas about creating a dress style for her beauty parlors.

Above you will see the sketches made for her. This with her measurements will be the fundament to draft  a pattern to create a dress style for her business.

How could your dress style improve and that of your enterprise? We have some ideas.